Celtic Lawn & Landscape: Southeast Michigan Residential and Commercial Grounds Maintenance Services

1. My mowing service arrived directly after my fertilization treatment. What should I do?

Do not panic, because there really shouldn't be any problems. There seems to be an urban legend that mowers "suck up" the fertilizer, but this is not true. The fertilizer will simply be dispersed throughout your lawn.

2. How soon after my lawn is fertilized should I water it?

Normally, we recommend waiting at least one hour after your lawn has been treated to water. The weed controls we apply are liquid, and they should dry on the grass blade. We apply dry, granular fertilizer that needs to be watered in to be fully effective. You will need to water the dry granular fertilizer, but try to wait an hour after treatment.

3. I've noticed crabgrass in my lawn. What can be done?

Crabgrass is a slow-growing, summer annual. It has coarse, textured leaves and shallow roots. Crabgrass spreads and reproduces through seeds and can grow in large clumps. It thrives in hot, dry conditions. Most customers received a pre-emergent crabgrass control with their first treatment, but if you missed the first application, do not worry. There are other options available. If the problem isn't too bad, you can simply hand-pull the crabgrass, but be sure to pull out all the roots. The next step is plenty of fertilizer, which we can provide. Fertilizer makes the good turf healthy, and it will crowd out the weaker crabgrass. Next, mow high, since the good turf will block rays of sun from crabgrass seedlings and stop them from germinating. Finally, water regularly, since crabgrass prefers dry conditions. Many people confuse crabgrass with fescue or quack grass - these are grass varieties that cannot be eliminated with weed controls or pre-emergent fertilizers.

4. I have dandelions. When will you treat them?

Dandelions are treated with broadleaf weed controls, which are only effective when the weather is warm and the weeds are actively growing. We will apply weed controls with your second application, usually from the end of April to early May. We will also treat all weeds again as needed throughout the entire growing season. It's normal to have some early spring weeds emerging, and you can rest assured that they will be treated.

5. I have mushrooms growing in my lawn. What can be done?

The mushroom is an above-ground fruiting or reproductive structure of a fungus that feeds on decaying organic matter in the soil. It is common to find mushrooms growing on lawns that contain buried stumps, roots, boards, excess thatch and other organic debris. They can range from 1-12" in diameter and tend to appear after heavy rains or watering. Some mushrooms are foul smelling and some are poisonous. Some people find them undesirable on home lawns because of their appearance, but they will not cause damage to turf. When practical, carefully dig up and destroy rotting stump, roots, or other organic debris. Mushrooms will disappear naturally when the food in the soil becomes exhausted.

6. I have moss growing in my lawn. What can be done?

There are hundreds of species of moss found in temperate climates. However, only a few are troublesome in moist, heavily shaded areas. Moss may become a problem whenever one or more of the following situations are present: Low levels of nitrogen; Poor air circulation; Excessive shade; Low soil pH; Poor drainage or compaction; Low mowing height. A fertilization specialist can apply a moss control product in the early spring or fall. Once the moss turns back it must be raked up and the bare areas should be renovated. The next step is to find and correct the underlying problem. We recommend that one or more of the following be performed: Prune trees to reduce shade and increase air circulation; Aerate your lawn to improve drainage; Have your soil tested to determine pH level; Adjust lawn mower height to cut at or above 3".

7. What is Merit grub control and when is it applied?

In recent years, there has been an increase in the white grub population in our area. White grubs are the larvae of various beetles, and left untreated they can severly damage and ultimately destroy your lawn. Merit grub control is applied as a preventative measure, usually with the 3rd or 4th lawn fertilizer application.

8. My lawn was treated two days ago, and I still have weeds. When will they die?

A normal residential lawn may contain several different varieties of broadleaf weeds that all react differently to weed control. Some weeds curl up and die immediately, while others may survive for several more weeks before they wilt. Be patient, because it may take up to three weeks for every weed variety to die after a treatment. If any linger, we will spray them with your next scheduled application. If the weeds are a real problem, call us and we'll schedule a free service call to retreat them.

9. You applied a pre-emergent. Shouldn't that control dandelions?

No. A pre-emergent is a herbicide that prevents seedlings from germinating. It is used primarily to control crabgrass. Crabgrass usually shows up in June. However, the pre-emergent products we use create a barrier that kills the crabgrass seedlings before they reach maturity. Dandelions and clover must be treated with a contact control product when the weather is warm.

10. Is there anything special I should do when mowing my lawn?

Yes! Make sure your mower blades are always sharp; this gives your turf a crisp cut and a nice, healthy look. If your mower blades are dull, your grass blades will appear jagged and become more susceptible to disease. Also, you should properly adjust your mower height; we recommend a mowing height of 3-3 ½". It is better to mow high twice a week than to scalp your lawn once a week. Longer turf deters weed germination and helps to maintain moisture much better than short, scalped grass.

11. My lawn was fertilized today. How long should I wait before I let my dog on the grass?

On a dry day, liquid weed control dries within 10 minutes, and it's fine to have a pet on the lawn once the product has time to dry. However, we recommend waiting an hour. On a rainy day, we also recommend waiting an hour, then wiping your pet's paws upon re-entry to the home.

12. I think I may have Grubs in my lawn. What can be done?

Grubs show up in well kept lawns for one reason: to fatten themselves up by eating the roots of your grass. Grubs feed underground and out of site. They don't really care if your grass dies in the process, but we do. Let us prevent these unwelcome dinner guests from causing severe damage and turf loss on your property!

Problem: Grubs will feed in the spring and late summer and early fall. Spring damage is usually not a major concern because spring rains usually mask any damage grubs will do at this time. Late summer and fall is when the majority of damage will show. Yellowing and brown areas will start to appear in large irregular patches. Because grubs feed on the root system, these patches will pull up easily and may roll up like carpeting.

Analysis: Because grubs feed out of sight, by the time damage is evident, it may be too late. The best solution for grubs is to insure they will never do damage in the first place. This is accomplished by applying a product called Merit to your lawn in late spring and summer, before the fall damage can take place. Merit is a preventative insecticide, which means it must be applied prior to their major feeding activity.

13. I think I may have Moles in my lawn. What can be done?

In the past, mole baits were developed assuming moles are similar to rats and mice, when in reality they are insectivores. As a result, previous mole baits have been shown to be ineffective. We use the only mole bait that is proven effective on moles in both field and laboratory testing. It's size, shape and feel let moles consume the bait in the same manner of their primary food source, the earthworm. With it's special enhancers we can ensure immediate attraction and product acceptance.